

I overdosed on lemon zest in the cake and reduced the sugar by 30%. The peach compote also has just a sneeze of sugar. And the tang of the cream cheese and creme fraiche also help combat the sweetness, in theory.








The worst part about making and eating oxtail soup is getting to the bottom of the bowl. So this time...we'll turn back time!
Perfectly tender and fall-off-the-bone good. But not completely disintegrated. That's important - we don't want to eat the Gerber's version of oxtail soup. Wouldn't that be awesome if Gerber made oxtail soup in babyfood form? Those poor babies...I guess privileges do come with getting teeth.
Do you see the slight crusty brown coloration of the meat that is staring you in the face? That, my friend, is flavor. The result of a good sear before braising!
The biggest bones are the best. So many nooks and crannies and tendons and ligaments and deliciously meltingly tender collagen...sorry, too much anatomy huh. Excuse my enthusiasm; you had to be there to understand.
I don't think these photos are really in any logical order. But no matter. If that meat doesn't look tender, you can just leave right now. I need some private time with my soup anyway.

Jackfruit - how do you describe it? I think it kind of tastes like Juicyfruit bubblegum. Or a blend of banana, pineapple, and mango. The fruit itself is gigantic. I mean huge. Like, ridiculously big. And spiky. I think it's delicious, and I'm never wrong. Except when I'm not right. But that doesn't happen.
This chiffon cake is to die for! I tried one bite. It was okay. I tried another. Oh, it's good. I tried a third...and then I lost count. I realized that you have to savor it slowly because the layers of flavor unravel on your tongue. First you're hit with the sweet aroma of jackfruit, and then the delicious flavor of a perfectly tender eggy chiffon comes forth (You don't like eggy chiffon? That is just too bad. Allow me to do you a favor and eat your piece). It's almost buttery...which is weird because it has no butter. Pure magic, my good friend.
Before trying these, you are not allowed to know what's in them. Oh what's that I see making a run for it? If my eyes don't deceive me...I believe it's your...starts with an "a" and ends with a "ppetite." Now now, come back here! Don't these look absolutely scrumptious? If you insist, I shall be perfectly honest and label them as Wheat-bran-black-bean-sweet-liquid-pureed-red-bean-millet-flax-banana muffins. They only contain 3 Tbsp (count them!) of oil and are perfectly tender, moist, and flavorful. The best part? You can customize them to your liking.
This is not a pretty cake. In fact, yesterday when Bonnie and I were frosting it with the green tea swiss meringue buttercream, my mom came by and was like "What is that?? It looks like a pie of poop." My placid thoughts quickly turned turbulent as I contemplated questioning my mother about the verdant status of her feces. But she had a point...at that point the cake was just a heap of greenish mutant cream, so I elected to dress it up with some cherries and chocolate and almonds. Ah, much better...who doesn't love poop with cherries on top? If you look closely, you can make out a barely legible hidden message at the top of the cake which I masked in vain with more Scharffen Berger chocolate.
When any picture of food is this messy, it can only mean one thing! Ok maybe two. Either the food was really delicious or the photographer just sucked. In this case I think both apply. But seriously, this cake was phenomenal!! The filling is Martha Stewart's mocha mousse with Scharffen Berger 70% chocolate and instant espresso powder, lightened with old fashioned Clover Farms whipping cream and a pate a bombe made with fat golden organic egg yolks from the farmer's market. The chocolate cake is Ina Garten's ubiquitous chocolate cake. And the frosting is a green swiss meringue buttercream that we couldn't stop licking...








Jiang Mu Ya – Ginger Mom Duck
The legs, thighs, and wings from one duck (or 1.5 lb assorted cuts)
2 Tbsp Shaoxing Wine
a few turns of freshly ground Szechuan peppercorn
½ tsp kosher salt
1 cup pickled ginger, sliced ¼ inch thick
1 cup fresh ginger, sliced ¼ inch thick
½ cup sesame oil
3 Tbsp sugar
1/3 cup soy sauce
1 cup sake or beer or Shaoxing Wine
3 carrots, roughly chopped
Additional add-ins (listed in order from lengthy to short cooking times): frozen dried chestnuts, peanuts, sweet potatoes, shiitake, seaweed, kabocha, nagaimo
Chop duck into bite size pieces, being careful not to splatter duck guts all over the place. Marinate the duck with 2 Tbsp Shaoxing Wine, a few turns of freshly ground Szechuan peppercorn, and ½ tsp kosher salt for 15 minutes while you prepare your ginger and veggies. Heat the sesame oil in a wok over high heat, and add all of the ginger slices and stir fry briefly. Throw the duck on top, add the lid, and cook undisturbed for 5 minutes to brown the duck. Stir the contents around, and brown the other sides. Add the 3 Tbsp sugar to the bubbling liquid and let it caramelize for a minute. Then add the 1/3 cup soy sauce, tian jiang (if using), and enough sake or beer to barely cover. Add carrots and chestnuts (and any other tough cooking veggies) and transfer to pressure cooker, and cook on high for 30 minutes. If you don’t have a pressure cooker, just add the lid and maintain a rapid simmer for 45 minutes. Remove from pressure cooker and transfer to a heavy pot, and add any additional add-ins depending on how long they need to cook (most take about 30 minutes). When almost done, take off the lid and let the liquid boil off to concentrate the yum yums, about 30 minutes. Taste and add salt and pepper to your liking.
Cook’s Notes
- If you only have fresh ginger, you can just use 2 cups fresh ginger and skip the pickled stuff.
- Make your own pickled ginger by marinating
- For the add-ins, feel free to get creative! Just try to pick stuff that holds up to stewing and doesn’t release too much liquid (such as leafy greens)